The Parrotlet family consists of seven members. The Pacific and the Green Rump are the two most popular. Their nearest cousins are the Amazons, and they are almost the same size. Pacifics are bold and may be quite possessive about their cage. Keep a constant check on them and never leave them unaccompanied while everyone is out of their cages; they will not hesitate to get into a fight with another parrot, regardless of size. They are incredibly busy birds, constantly moving from toy to toy and playing. Tidbit seems to become bored with his toys rather rapidly, therefore they must be swapped often.
Pacifics are excellent pets if properly socialized and are a lot of fun with their antics.
Parrotlets are a relatively new popular species in aviculture, however, they are thought to survive for 20-25 years.
Scientific Name: Forpus Coelestis
Common Name: Pacific Parrotlet, Celestial Parrotlet
Native To: South America
Introducing my Pacific Parrotlet: Tidbit here is a Pacific Parrotlet. He’s probably the most upbeat bird I’ve ever seen. When we first brought him home, it took him about 3 minutes to adjust to his new cage and surroundings. Within 5 minutes, he seemed to have always been here. He enjoys having his head stroked and chirps like a cricket. Pacifics are the second smallest parrot, weighing around 30 grams on average (1 ounce). These men had hushed, almost gentle tones. Tidbit yells louder than Willie the Quaker mumbles. Tidbit is obsessed with plastic bags and green leafy vegetables; just the sight of them causes him to start chattering and dashing back and forth. I’m still not sure whether it’s because he loves destroying them or because they irritate him.
Keeping Pacific Parrotlets
Pet parrotlets are best maintained as single birds. Ideally, the newborn parrotlet should be put with its new owner between the ages of six and ten weeks. They’ve been weaned, and their connection instinct is at its peak. If put in a loving and caring environment, the parrotlet will become a part of the family. Females are often “one-person” birds, and they will frequently attack everyone else in the same manner as their Amazon relatives. Males have a particular individual, but they will frequently accept other persons, even strangers, handling them.
A cage for a pet parrotlet should be no less than 18 inches tall, 13 inches wide, and 14 inches deep. Because most parrotlets prefer to climb rather than fly, it is essential to choose a cage big enough to hold a variety of toys. Pull-out trays with grates should be provided in cages to keep the birds off the bottom. Food and water should be stored in areas where they will not be contaminated by droppings. To exercise the bird’s feet, natural wood perches should be used instead of dowels.
Use open feeding bowls since parrotlets will frequently not push their heads into a dish with a hood and will hunger as a result. A glass tube fountain with water should be supplied. Parrotlets often bathe in their water bowls, splashing out all of the water. They will play and splash until they are saturated if given a canary-sized bath. Parrotlets will also bathe in wet spinach or lettuce by rolling their whole bodies on the moist leaves.
Parrotlets are often high-energy creatures that spend their days swinging, climbing, and playing with a variety of toys. Ropes, ladders, leather chew toys, bells, beads, and Olympic rings are among the most popular items. They are incredible acrobats that often play with many toys at once. They may also be trained to utilise a playpen, but they must be closely observed since they often return searching for their human. Their inherent curiosity might lead them into danger if they are not supervised since they are brilliant and brave. Always keep their wings trimmed to keep them out of mischief and to prevent them from getting nippy.
Parrotlets require a lot of fuel since they are such busy birds. They consume more calories per gramme than a macaw. Baby-feeding couples often eat three or more times the typical quantity of food. Hand-fed parrotlets should be exposed to a broad range of meals while they are young. Feed a high-quality tiny hookbill or cockatiel seed mix. They may also be given commercial pelleted diets, however parrotlets are one of the few birds that need some seed in their diet while mating. Fortunately, unlike other parrots, they will generally consume both seeds and pellets. They need fresh fruits, vegetables, and greens on a regular basis whether given seeds or pellets. Breeding couples should be provided sprouted seed, egg food, cooked beans, whole-grain breads, potatoes, rice, and pasta many times each week. Fresh water, mineral block, and cuttlebone should always be accessible. Several times each week, vitamins should be sprinkled over soft meals. If desired, spirulina may be included with the egg meal.
The value of calcium to breeding chickens cannot be overstated. Cuttlebone and mineral blocks should always be accessible, and calcium powder, in addition to vitamins, should be sprinkled over soft meals. Most chickens will consume enormous quantities of cuttlebone just before laying eggs. A six-inch cuttlebone is often consumed by hens once a week for many weeks prior to laying. If the chickens do not get enough calcium, they will become egg-bound.
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