Asking for Advice and Sharing Information


Asking for Advice

The majority of us who keep and breed birds regularly feel the need to consult with other people who own birds for guidance on occasion. If we follow the advisor’s recommendation without knowing them personally, the guidance may not be very helpful or may even be damaging to us. Caution is warranted if one is following advice. Where do we stand with regard to the advice? If we are interested in the actions or requirements of breeding pairs, we should inquire as to whether the counselor has one pair, two pairs, or multiple pairs on which he or she bases their advice. How many years of experience does the person have working with the animal in question? Which is longer, two years or five years, or ten years? Understanding the behavior of a species requires both time and experience with multiple pairs of that species. This makes a significant difference in one’s ability to comprehend the behavior of that species. Different birds act in a variety of ways depending on their particular circumstances and the partners they choose.

Are the birds kept in cages or do they have access to outside flights? Are there going to be more flights with pairs of the same species, or will there be flights with pairs of various species? What about furniture that resembles cages? What different forms of perches are utilized, and where exactly can one find them? Are there any games or toys available on board? Where are the bowls for the food kept? What kinds of foods do you include in your diet? How much food is given each day, and when does it get given? When did the questioned individuals first meet each other? Are you younger than five years old? More than five years old? When did they first start dating each other? What kind of behavior does the pair exhibit? Are these birds taken in the wild or raised in captivity? The answers to these questions are beneficial to the advisor when we ask for guidance on our birds, and they create the framework for a more detailed answer.

Informational Brochures Intended For Customers

Customers who have never had a pet bird before are very appreciative of printed sheets with information and are most likely to study them thoroughly either before they get the bird or immediately after they have it for the first time. Some people who keep birds as pets might have more than one bird, but they don’t have access to transition information. When we sell birds, it is essential that we provide our customers with appropriate guidance on how to properly introduce the bird to its new environment.

Caging

First, the size and number of perches within the enclosure should be appropriate for the species. It is important that birds have perches that serve many purposes; not only should they be able to perch there, but they should also be able to exercise their beaks and keep them in good form. Make sure that new bird owners are aware that they will need to find new perches whenever one of their old ones is destroyed. In addition to this, people need to be aware that they should clean the perch on a weekly basis at the very least due to the fact that the bird will clean its beak on the perch.

In order to make the bird feel more at peace, position the cage so that its back is against a wall. Birds that are kept in cages that are situated in the centre of a room are more likely to become stressed. If the cage is located in a room where the residents stay up late into the night, make sure that it is covered at night.

Diet

The type of food that is provided on a daily basis, the amount of food that is provided, and the location of the dishes in which the food is stored are all essential factors in the effective adaptation of a new bird to its new surroundings. When the juvenile parrot is moved to its new home, it will choose to perch wherever it feels the most at ease, which is most likely to be the perch that is the tallest in the cage. Dishes with food and drink must be positioned adjacent to the area that has been selected such that the dishes are within the bird’s reach; for example, the bird must only bend down to pick up food from the dish. People who aren’t familiar with the strong instincts birds have for self-preservation might not completely understand why juvenile birds feel the urge to climb to the highest place they can find. Some people who are new to caring for birds put the food bowls in the bottom of the cage and then couldn’t understand why the birds didn’t go there to eat when they put them there. If birds do not consume enough food, they will lose weight, become weaker, and be more susceptible to infection from bacteria.

Even fully grown birds, when moved to a different enclosure or flight, may be reluctant to move down from a higher perch to a lower level in order to get their food. Put the bowls of food exactly close to the perch that is the highest possible point the bird can reach, and do this at least until the bird gets over the stress of the changeover phase.

The bird’s regular diet must to include items that are identical to those that it is accustomed to eating, as well as foods that are cooked in the same manner, such as being sliced or diced into pieces of a like size, sprouted, etc. It is important to provide the new owner with a page of information that includes specifics on the diet. After a few weeks, when the bird has sufficiently adjusted to its new environment, you can introduce it to other meals. Altering the diet of a bird at the same time that it is put into a new cage is not something that is recommended. Even the color of the food or water bowl might be upsetting to a bird that is going through the process of transitioning. Dishes that are brightly colored or made of plastic or ceramic can be startling to a bird that is accustomed to eating out of a bowl made of stainless steel. When it comes to young birds, the design of the bowl is also quite essential. Young birds do best in wide, shallow bowls as opposed to narrow, deep bowls. If you don’t prevent it, young birds have a tendency to drop their food outside the bowl, where they cannot retrieve it.

Breeding Pairs That Are Being Moved

Depending on the species, it may be of the utmost importance to house a breeding pair in an enclosure or flight that is large enough to accommodate the species in question. It is not the size of the bird that determines the size of the cage; rather, it is the behavior and requirements of the species pair. According to reports from successful cockatoo breeders, their birds are at their most productive during extended flights (15 or more feet long).

During such a protracted flight, the male has a far lower chance of successfully capturing and harming the female. During the breeding season, cockatoo breeders in Australia and other countries where the birds are housed in huge flights do not report the type of fatalities that are due to aggressiveness. Because of this, it is extremely vital for the vendor to provide the purchaser with information regarding the dimensions and materials of the enclosure where the birds have been kept. When moving a pair of parrots from a large flight to a smaller flight, you run the risk of having a very detrimental impact on the pair. It is possible that this will cause an excessive amount of tension and aggressive behavior in certain species, such as Eclectus. When confined in smaller cages, there have been instances in which formerly content and compatible pairings have turned antagonistic and aggressive toward one another. It is also essential to position breeding pairs in their confined environments above rather than below your eye level. The stress level of caged birds is increased when they are placed below eye level.

Carriage of Birds of Adult Size

Putting each bird in its own distinct compartment or container is the best way to ensure that none of the birds exhibit violent behavior while being transported. When birds of different pairs are confined together in a small space, even the most attached and compatible among them might become confused, scared, and eventually violent with one another. This dangerous and unwise approach has already been responsible for the loss of lives in a matter of minutes. It is both excellent management and good business to make preparations for the safe transportation of a pair of birds from one location to another by ensuring that each bird is crated in its own separate compartment before making the move.

The Importance of a Flowing Transition for a Successful Sale

Birds Available to Buy

The majority of us who breed birds also sell birds, and we occasionally even purchase birds ourselves. The bulk of birds that are sold are likely to be young birds that have been reared to be pets or companions in a home or family. Some of them are young birds that have been reared to become adult birds in the future. On occasion, we will also sell older birds or pairings that we have determined we do not wish to maintain. It’s possible that we are decreasing our breeding stock in order to cut down on the amount of work we have to do; alternatively, it’s possible that we are eliminating certain species from our breeding program in order to make way for another species. In each of these scenarios, the birds are taken from a setting in which they are comfortable and relocated to a setting that is wholly foreign and uncharted for them. This is because the birds are either being sold or bought. This is a significant turning point in the lives of birds kept as pets or for breeding, and it is important that both the seller and the buyer give it due consideration and make meticulous preparations for it.

Background

According to the observations of field biologists, young parrots in the wild receive aid from their parents as they mature and learn about the world around them. They continue to live with their parents after they have flown the nest, during which time they learn the locations of various food sources and how to gather the food. During the early stages of their development, they learn from both their parents and the rest of the flock behaviors that are considered proper and acceptable. Even though they experience new, unexpected, and seasonal occurrences in their everyday lives, the locations of food sources stay relatively constant, and they are familiar with the members of their own species that they interact with on a regular basis. The world in which they live is basically one that has a great lot of similarities to our own.

Babies That Were Raised By Hand

Our hand-reared baby birds begin their journey from the familiar to the unfamiliar. Weaned baby parrots are old enough to forage for food on their own, but they still count on their parents for support and direction. Bird breeders that interact with the public have the responsibility of preparing both the baby birds and their new owners for the significant change that will occur when the birds move from their previous environment into their new environment. A person who acquires a companion bird may have very little information about birds, much less “bird common sense,” in contrast to bird breeders, who typically have a significant lot of fundamental understanding about the birds they raise. People who keep birds as pets have a tendency to forget the things they did not know when they initially got their first bird. We had to learn the lessons the hard way, which often meant putting the lives of birds at risk.

Preparation for the Transition

If a young bird gets the opportunity to spend an hour or more in a carrier on multiple times with its bowl of food and a toy, this increases the likelihood that the bird will feel at ease while being transported in a carrier. Once this occurs, the carrier is no longer dangerous. Young birds that have experienced the motions of being transported in a vehicle travel with less anxiety. It’s possible that a young bird that is exposed to a range of toys will develop a preference for one over the others. The fledgling bird will have an easier time adjusting to its new environment if it is brought home with its favorite toy. The amount of the baby bird’s comfort level with its new owner can be increased by having the new owner visit the young bird on multiple occasions, but this requires the breeder to have the time and interest to do so. Those of us who transport birds across the country do not always have this option available to us. Nevertheless, there are preparations that may be made on our end that will help the bird adjust more smoothly at first.

wing adornments

Over the years, I have witnessed and been made aware of a few major issues that have resulted from incorrect wing trims. Naturally, the worst possible scenario is one in which all of the flight feathers, both the primary and secondary ones, are clipped. Even while I do not know of any veterinarian that endorses this particular cut, I do know of some vets who have carried it out in the past. When startled, birds that have this cut may leap from their owner’s arm or the cage, only to land with the same force as a stone on the ground below them. The sternums of these birds have been injured, and one of the birds also had a shattered back.

When all of the primary are trimmed to a very short length, it is common for the bird to pick at its feathers as it attempts on a daily basis to groom the sharp cut ends that are protruding into its side. This pattern of action eventually evolves into a habit, which in this case is the habit of chewing on feathers. This issue could be avoided by not cutting the first two primaries, utilizing a shallow cut in which only the primary’s outer half is removed, or by leaving the first two primaries uncut altogether. This shallow trim will not work for little species like cockatiels and budgerigars since their bodies are so light that they can still get height when flying.

On the other hand, larger, heavier-bodied parrots can pull off this trim successfully. Always perform a flight test on a trimmed bird indoors multiple times over the course of several days to determine whether or not the wing trim was successful in controlling the bird’s flight. In the case of certain birds, more pruning might be required. As we get more knowledge about the effects of the various kinds of wing trims, the avicultural community’s opinions concerning wing trimming are through a process of evolution. In addition, there are some people who maintain fully-fledged birds as pets in the household environment, but they do not allow the birds access to any open doors.

Beaks That Have Grown Over

Many of the smaller parrot species, as well as the bigger species with softer beaks, find that hard perches, such as manzanita, ribbon wood, and eucalyptus, despite their lovely appearance, are sometimes too difficult for their beaks to operate. If you’ve noticed that your birds seldom gnaw on their perches, one possible explanation is that the perches are too tough for them. By providing the bird with an additional perch made of soft pine, the bird will have a better chance of successfully using its beak on the perch.

By routinely chewing and stripping the soft wood, the bird is able to keep its beak in good form and avoid the issue of an oversized beak. This is made possible by the fact that it is able to keep its beak in perfect shape. Sometimes veterinarians would diagnose an expanded beak as a liver ailment when the underlying issue is that the species in question is living on a perch that is too difficult to chew. Cockatoos and macaws, on the other hand, do not typically experience this issue! When birds have chewed the perch to pieces, it is obvious that you will need to replace the perch. Many new cages come equipped with aesthetically pleasing manzanita perches. It’s possible that young parrots in their first cages will find the manzanita too tough for their beaks to work on, and as a result, they won’t learn the correct beak-working habits at the period when their instincts drive them to work on the perch. A perch that is easier to grip is something that these young parrots value highly.

Putting Bands on Rare Birds

The provision of a permanent means of identification is the primary objective of the practice of banding birds. This identification is significant in a number of ways, the most important of which are: One reason to do this is so that you can keep track of important information, such as the day the animal was hatched, its personal history, its medical history at the veterinarian’s office, and its ownership. The second reason is so that the bird may be easily and swiftly identified in the event that it is misplaced or taken. There have been two different incidents that I am aware of in which stolen macaws have been returned because the band number established ownership. I’ve also heard of someone finding a lost African grey pet and taking it to a local pet store to be rehomed. The proprietor of the business saw the band and got in touch with the organization that had sold it. As a result, the breeder was located and the bird was given back to the owner, who was relieved. Banding is a requirement for domestic birds that have been raised in the states of Colorado, New Jersey, and New York, whether they are entering the state or already live there. Pet bird owners who travel outside of the United States with their birds are need to bring the appropriate documentation with them in order to enter certain countries and to be able to bring their birds back into the United States with them. The official may quickly and easily identify the bird by comparing the number on the band with the number listed on the documentation, which is made possible thanks to the numbered leg band. Your bird’s medical history should include the band number, which should be recorded by your veterinarian.

Taking Bands Off of Things

Banding birds presents a number of challenges, one of which is that some vets do not appear to be aware of the significance of the band to the person who owns the bird. When the bird is brought in for a checkup or to have its wings clipped, these veterinarians remove bands from it as a matter of course. There are some vets who are of the opinion that it is unnecessary to band birds. This perspective may have developed as a result of the difficulties encountered when dealing with wild-caught birds who had open leg bands that had been attached to them during the USDA quarantine process. The majority of these bands were only tightened once, despite the fact that the directions specifically say that the bands must be cinched twice in order to be correctly applied. While the birds were climbing around in their cages, some of these bands were so loose that they snagged on the wires of the cage, which caused the birds to get injured. Breeders in the modern era who apply closed bands of the appropriate size should not experience the same kinds of issues as in the past.

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